mi belly is so lleno with chile relleno

¡viva México! i can't express the overwhelming sense of calm and comfortability that swept me as i stepped out onto the streets of Mexico City and inhaled the soothing blend of roast chicken, churros, and car exhaust. mmmm. my fourth visit to this country is already showing signs of being the most interesting.

we arrived late Friday night and spent the weekend in the Centro Historico sightseeing, sleeping, eating, and adjusting. i felt right at home. luckily i haven't lost too much of my Spanish, so i was able to slide back into the Mexican rhythm without skipping a beat. i'm speaking metaphorically here - my salsa dancing is still quite spectacularly horrendous. i don't know the city too well, but it is familiar enough that i don't even really feel like i'm traveling anymore - it just feels like a second (or third, or fourth, or...) home.

on Sunday, our country assistant coordinator (it's a horrible title - essentially she takes care of all the logistics and still manages to be really easygoing and fun) guided us through some of the sights of the city. after a bus ride through the upscale ambassadorial neighborhood to see the contrast with the massive sprawling slums, we were dropped off on the beautiful boulevard Paseo de la Reforma and walked past the Bosque de Chapultepec park until we reached the Museo de Antropologia National (National Anthropology Museum, http://www.mna.inah.gob.mx/ ). it is a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon - the Paseo is closed off to traffic, so everyone walks, bikes, rollerblades, and skates through the streets. the Museum, if you have never heard of it, is one of the best in the world for its extensive collection of pre-Hispanic artefacts and information. if i weren't so jetlagged, i could easily spend weeks inside. as it was, i lasted about an hour and a half before metamorphosizing into a lizard on the sunny bench in the courtyard, napping the afternoon away.

our R&R time over, we jumped into the program again on Monday, starting with a relocation to the Colonia Santo Domingo (literally, colonia means "colony," but used to denote a neighborhood). the boys and i moved into a homestay with the Juarez family. we stayed with a very chill young man whose mother had begun hosting students over 10 years ago, so the family was well versed in hosting. over the course of the week we spend with them, i got on really well and was able to have some good conversations about family history, changes in the society, and current issues. of all the homestays thus far, this one was probably the easiest to live with, which is a real blessing because sometimes being a consciensous and courteous guest can be a lot of work and another source of fatigue on top of all the other stuff going on.

however, in spite of the long days of lectures and fervent activity, the week in Santo Domingo was one of the most rejuvenating of the year for me. the sense of community bond there is palpable; at almost every hour of the day there is a swath of activity in the streets: abuelitas (old women) selling pasteles (baked goods), taco stands, kids playing, teenagers listening to music or making out, men conversing in hardware stores, and everything in between. everyone seems to know everyone else, and in spite of the neighborhood's reputation for crime, i felt entirely safe because i knew that i was looked out for. fortunately, IHP has been coming here for a long time and has built strong relations with the community, so as students we are greeted not with suspicion but with warm hospitality. i tried to reciprocate their graciousness, but i quickly learned that it is more than i am capable of.

every morning on my way to school i would smile and offer a "buenos dias" to the three abuelitas selling bread on the sidewalk. they always responded with more kindheartedness and sincerity than i would ever expect from a stranger. this was just a taste of the deep qualities of this area and of the cultural distinctiveness of Mexico. i could not imagine living in a city in the US with such a strong sense of communal integrity, but perhaps that is just because i haven't lived in the right places yet.

still, the history of Santo Domingo is a unique one, and it certainly contributes to the community's overriding strength. less than forty years ago, all the land that is now a bustling, dense commercial/residential area was nothing but a stone-filled wasteland. it still carries the name Pedregal, which translates roughly to "rocky land". the neighborhood was born through an invasion, or occupation, at the hands of some 5000 poor families with few opportunities. working collectively, they literally seized the land overnight and began building all of their infrastructure from the ground up. although they had some disputes with the "original" owners of the land (i put "original" in quotations because, in a post-colonial nation like Mexico with a high indigneous population, this is a highly contentious issue), eventually the government granted them the land. now, largely as a result of their own efforts, the neighborhood has electricity, water, sewage, and transport systems, as well as schools, clinics, community cultural centers, and a vibrant local economy. there have been times of conflict and even violence in the history of Santo Domingo, but as i learned from my host family, the communal spirit is still felt by many people and it continues to impact the daily lives of everyone living there.

i wish i could do more justice to this story as it is something that is not found much in American history outside of perhaps the Great Depression era. i cannot overstress the impact that it had on my conception of a healthy community and the lessons that i have learned about collective action, grassroots organization, and social change.

changing gears to academics, we have been overrun with fascinating lectures and site visits. we've heard from government officials, social activists, NAFTA critics, and even a woman from USAID who spoke very bluntly about the pros and cons of the organization. at the end of the week, we visited an urban agriculture project in the heart of the city run by a small team of enthusiasted young women who are trying to insitute viable gardening systems as a way to decrease family dependency on expensive supermarkets (which are often supplied by large-scale US farms growing GM crops - but that's a topic for another discussion) and improve health. we also visited the home of Cesar Añorve, who is the Mexican king of dry toilet technologies, although you would never guess from his quiet, sweet demeanor.

soon we will be leaving for Oaxaca, and as much as i've enjoyed the big city, i cannot deny that my lungs are dying for some fresher atmospheres. now, at least, i have learned a little bit more about the city and what i want to explore in the future. and seeing as one can never "see it all," isn't that the real value of being a compulsive wanderer? feel free to disagree. i do.

hasta luego, middle earth!

the last two weeks in the big N-Zed have been... many things. frustrating, inspiring, anxious. we split into two smaller groups and i went with one and spent 5 days in Golden Bay, which is a super-cool small community on the northwest coast of the South Island that has a shown us some of the best examples of "localization" that we've seen so far. for the first time on the trip, we were in a town where, after 3 days of visiting different people and places, we could recognize faces in the town center and really get a feel for what a close-knit community feels like here. there are all kinds of different people, from permaculture agro-yuppies to f--k-the-system hippies to 4th-generation dairy farmers to wwoofers galore.

every day there was packed with activity, yet we didn't seem to get too exhausted because it was all so interesting. some of the highlights were definitely the Autumn Farm, a self-described "paradise on earth" that incorporates sustenance organic horticulture with a chic accomodation house catering to gay travelers. another was the Mussel Inn: organic micro-brewery, folk music locale, restaurant, and prime hang-out spot. also, we visited the sustenance garden of a guy named Pedro who grows everything without irrigation or tilling or outside fertilizers. we got to pick our own veggies for dinner: huge beets and carrots (see picture below) and potatoes and squashes and greens. they were delicious.

granted, not everyone in the area is a back-to-the-land type progressive, but there is a real sense of symbiosis and reciprocity. the strong tourism industry in the area doesn't hurt, either.

overall, the week was incredibly inspirational and optimistic. it really gave us all some palpable examples of creative people who have actively changed their lives and their communities for mutual benefit. one of the mottos of our group is lovingly acronymized as TATA - There Are Thousands of Alternatives - as opposed to the dominant rationale provided for mainstream trends in globalization, TINA, or There Is No Alternative. hope is a much-valued asset among us, as it is often hard to come by these days.

after Golden Bay, we reunited outside of Nelson for our retreat and country synthesis. there's been a lot of relaxing in the sun, drinking wine, and doing homework. and sleeping on the trampoline under the stars of the southern sky.

if you want to read more about New Zealand, i can toot my own horn and recommend that you visit www.ihp.edu, mouse over "News" and click on "Letters Home." for the first two countries, our student fellow wrote these letters, but for NZ i thought i'd try my hand out and give her a break from what can sometimes be a monotonous task. so check them out - they're probably more interesting than the narrative dribble to be found here.

oh yeah: in two days i leave for MEXICO!! ¡ay caramba! ¡dios mio! ¡andale, guero! ¡mis pantalones estan en fuego! ...[disclaimer: the words written here do not necessarily represent the SANE tanner welsh. please don't judge him too harshly]

volcano. pirates. kiwi slang. sidewalk chalk. glaciers. bo-ring.

for those of you confused by this blog title, the word "kiwi" has multiple meanings. in no particular order, it can refer to the delicious fruit (which incidentally grows quite well in New Zealand), the rare flightless bird that lives in the forests here, or any person who identifies as a New Zealander. although i have never seen the bird except on the local currency or nature murals, i am pretty sure it is as cool and unique as the other two.

let me see, where did i leave off after the last issue? ah yes, the second marae next to Tongariro National Park and the beautiful volcano called Mount Ruapehu. after leaving Massey University in Palmerston North, we bussed up to this picturesque (sorry, no photos this time - forgot to bring my usb adapter) landscape and were welcomed onto the marae by a contingent of the local Maori community. over the next few days, they showed us genuine hospitality and shared with us the beauty of the land, elements of their belief system, and the struggles that they are involved with on social, economic, and environmental levels. we were guided on a hike partway up the volcano, around the river systems that emanate from it and are currently threatened by extensive damming projects, and through native forests and nature reserves with all of their lush foliage and wildlife. each of these excursions would have made our visit more than worthwhile, and being able to experience all three was almost an overload of incredible experiences. the people that i met were so eager to communicate with us, to teach us some of the real gems of their culture, and to learn from us as well. i cannot say much more about how wonderful this time was: there was so much spiritual growth, so many breakthroughs for the group, and so many connections established with the people and the land that i would be undermining its value by trying to express it in my goofy little blog. ask me about it sometime when i get back and i will be more than happy to give the full story.

returning to Wellington was a bit of a harsh transfer, but it was also rewarding. as soon as we arrived we divided up into our respective homestays, and by a stroke of luck and last-minute planning i was able to get placed with a sweet little family of four ON MY OWN. time away from the group is almost as scarce as, well, the kiwi bird, so i was really excited to have 5 whole days with just myself and my host family... and a few good books.

our school schedule continued unabated, so during the day we all congregated at one of the university campuses in Wellington for some really unique and insightful lectures. we learned about New Zealand's Carbon Emissions Trading Scheme (part of their Kyoto Protocol implementation), about social issues in Wellington, about decolonizing anthropological methodologies in relation to the Maori, about the dairy industry, and especially about political activism and New Zealand's Green Party. we even got to visit the Green Party headquarters in the Parliament Building and have an hour-long discussion with the co-leader. in addition to all of the academic activity, i had many long talks with my host parents (both members of the Green Party) about politics, environmental issues, and raising kids in an urban environment.

in my typical fashion, i also spent a lot of time just walking around the city, getting myself quasi-thoroughly lost, and then finding my way back home. this is, in my opinion, the best and most interesting way to get to know a city. there are a lot of cool little neighborhoods, a beautiful seaside stroll, and funky cafes galore. caffeine intake reached dangerous levels.

the week ended with a little pre-vacation party to celebrate the 6 peoples' birthdays that landed during the time that we will be off doing or own thing around the country. also it was a good excuse for all of us to dress up like pirates (the theme of the party) and drink wine and listen to music on small ipod speakers in the botanical gardens. when you work and study hard, ya gots to have some hard-core fun to balance out the emotional checkbook.

and then... vacation! Emma (my travelling buddy) started off our adventures by defining our motto as: "no plans, no pants, no priorities." basically we were wingin' it. and doing as much skinny dipping as possible. we were off to a good start: on the ferry ride from Wellington (North Island) to Picton (South Island) we unexpectedly met 3 other IHPers. when it got to raining too much to stay out on the deck, we all crammed into a little landing at the top of the stairs and busted out the guitars and our early-morning singing voices. eventually we had a veritable shindig going on, and lots of strangers joined in our renditions of Sublime, The Beatles, Nirvana, and a medley of jumbled lyrics from folk classics. upon arriving in Picton, Emma and i decided to bum around with another IHPer and her visiting boyfriend... and their rental car. we crammed all our gear into the teensy trunk, satisfied our gastronomic desires with a hearty meal of fish and chips, and then took the scenic drive out into the Marlborough Sound until we found a campsite that suited our liking. oh, and we made sure to stop for some naked swimming and raft-lounging along the way. that night, we wandered down to the beach and marveled at the populations of phosphorescent algae that lit up the tiny waves like millions of little roman candles. i could have spent all night just watching them spark up as i moved my feet through the water, but eventually we decided to call it a day and settled into our cozy tent. i might be stretching the term "cozy" here; the tent was made for 3 people, not 4, so suffice to say that we mastered the art of sardine-esque human spooning. a good end to a good start to a good vacation. Emma and i left our friends the next day in Nelson, then began hitch-hiking down the East Coast towards Christchurch. it took us 5 rides and 3 days to get there, and we had some... interesting times along the way. lots of "well what do we do now?" "i don't care." "cool. let's go see what's over there." "i'm down." ... and so forth. we arrived in Christchurch the same way as we did everywhere else: not knowing where we were, where we were going to sleep, or what crazy concoction we would come up with to nourish ourselves using our eclectic traveling pantry of foodstuffs. (we invented a surprisingly tasty grilled sandwich using beets, apples, cheese, garlic, chili sauce, and roasted peanuts). in true serendipitous fashion, we quickly discovered that another IHP was staying in town with her very hospitable mother. which meant a nice patch of floor in a quaint little B&B fully equipped with kitchen and TV showing NZ's equivalent of MTV. maybe it was the fact that i hadn't seen American programming for 5 months, but music videos seemed pretty, well, stupid.

anyhoo, we met up with our friend Michaela there, which was nice because we weren't really sure how we would actually rendesvouz with her other than pure chance. the three of us booked rooms at a hostel for the next two nights, and proceeded to paint the town red. and blue. and pink. and green. literally. in true bohemian-crazy-college-students-on-vacation fashion, we invaded a dollar store and stocked up on goofy hats, fake moustaches, and sidewalk chalk. all the ingredients for good fun. then we strutted over to the central plaza, a pleasant centre called Cathedral Square, and proceeded to perform acts of guerilla barbary (no, not the raid-and-pillage kind, the haircutting kind) in the form of them shaping a mohawk on my skull using the ubiquitous trusty tool: pocket-knife scissors. after that, we opened up the chalk bucket and graffitied the plaza with our own brand of landscapes and psychedelic impressionism. many asian tourists were intrigued, and i expect my artwork will be featured in many tedious holiday slideshows back in Japan, South Korea, and China. we also had a few people join in the fun and create their own pieces to add to the ad hoc masterpiece. again, i've got some good pictures but you'll just have to wait for my own tedious slideshow presentation.

the following day we rented a car, bummed around the city for a while, and then picked up the final two traveling companions from the airport. not wanting to waste a single precious minute of our 12 days of freedom, we pumped up the volume, rocked out, and drove through the night to wake up in Te Anau, the jumping off point to Milford Sound. we camped in one of the most serene places i've ever had the pleasure to sleep in and spent the next two days playing in the spectacular rainforests and fjords and huddling together to survive the unexpectedly chilly nights.

after Milford Sound, we scooted up the West Coast, stopping in Queenstown, Wanaka, some other places i can't quite remember, and spent our last night in Punakaiki. we explored glaciers, beaches strewn with Georgia O'Keefe-inspired driftwood sculptures, and everything in between. many more hilarious stories should be told, but unfortunately my time is up.

don't worry, i am still alive and in one piece. might not have another chance to update on New Zealand before we leave, so my next installment will most likely be an ecstatic ode to the joys of Mexico City's street food. hasta la proxima!

new zealand. sweet as!

so here i am, sitting in the student lounge of my dormitory in Massey University. we've only been here for less than 48 hours, and we're leaving in about 9 hours (it is almost 4 in the morning - the only time i have to write, so please pardon any grammatical errors that may pop up like chunks in a glass of milk). New Zealand thus far has been fantastic. we arrived on the 19th, spent a few days in Wellington, where i promptly spent ungodly amounts of money on the overpriced commodities here (a beer at a decent bar is $7-8). no worries, though, we moved away from the beautiful coastal town soon enough to go to riverslea retreat and start our lectures at a lodge tucked into the forest next to a beautiful river just outside the town of Otaki on the North Island. the countryside is so idyllic and green and... quiet!!! a welcome change from the chaos of Mumbai, though i do miss all the activity sometimes.

while at riverslea i spent my days learning about Maori cultural revival and political struggles, conservation problems and the army of invasive species complicating ecosystems here, climate change and the importance of the amazon in regulating hydrological cycles for the entire western hemisphere, and similar low-key topics. luckily we have the river close by so i can go for a refreshing dip after the intensity of class. or i will just sit on the deck and "have a yarn" (there's all kinds of glorious phrases i'm learning here) with friends.

after riverslea we relocated to a Maori "marae," which is difficult to translate because we really don't have anything equivalent. it fulfills the roles of community center, spiritual sanctuary, and guest house for the local "iwi" (tribe, people). sadly, our visit coincided with the funeral of a young woman, which was taking place at a nearby marae. as a result, many of the people who we were supposed to meet and spend time with were there, so it was mostly just us this time. still, it was great to spend some time on the land there and be guests in a totally new culture.

tomorrow we're going up to the mountains of the North Island to see Tongariro National Park (volcanoes! hurrah!) and stay at another marae. after that, we'll be going back to Wellington to stay in homestays with members of New Zealand's green party, so that should be some more good clean fun. then vacation, and i'm not quite sure what i'm doing yet, but i intend to see as much of the South Island as i can in 12 days.

i apologize for the rather superficial overview of the experience thus far. i know i've left a lot of gaps (and there are still weeks of India that i need to include) and haven't really covered the important stuff, but honestly there is just no time to get online, and now that i have found the time, i am a little too tired to write anything substantial. i guess that's part of the nature of this program. ha. just kidding, there is a hell of a lot of substantial stuff going on, but unfortunately you won't get to hear the whole story until i return. mua-ha-ha. [evil smirk].

school's out! where to? to the abode of HH the Dalai Lama, of course.

if you have been following my trip closely thus far, then you may notice that there has not been much mention of the geological features so dear to my heart - mountains - because the closest we've come to actually being on a mountain was gazing up at Kilimanjaro or hiking around the foothills of the Western Ghats near Pune in India. being the clever fellow that i occasionally am, i realized this harsh reality of the program's schedule long ahead of time and planned my India vacation (a pitiful 6 days, but hey, what more can i ask for) accordingly, i.e. destination: Dharamsala!

for those to whom this name rings no large gong of recognition, it is the city in India that hosts the Tibetan government-in-exile. in other words, it's full of monks, monasteries, hostels, hippie-chic (and not-so-chic) backpackers, and all of the lovely tourism accoutrement's that follow the USD and the Euro like greyhounds behind a plastic hare: punjab-run "authentic" Indian restaurants, western-run trinket shops, bars, loads of Tibetan gift shops, eco-tourism ads wherever the eye falls, street hawkers selling pirated dvds, and many very persistent street beggars. it was really difficult for me to walk through the center of McLeod Ganj (where i stayed just above Dharamsala, and much more visitor-oriented) because it meant that not only was i bombarded by evidence of "cultural commodification" in the highest degree, but i also had to confront my oft-ignored but nevertheless ever-present identity as a white American tourist. not the label i self-identify with, but the locals don't know that, and so they treat me accordingly.

if i'm painting too grim a picture of the town, don't take it as a sign that i didn't enjoy my time there. on the contrary, it was one of the most incredible places i've ever been. the clear mountain air; the prayer wheels; the long conversations with monks about life, compassion, practice, culture; the biting cold; the cozy Tibetan restaurants serving momos (steamed dumplings, usually stuffed with cheese or bak choi); the hikes up steep goat trails; and of course, the HIMALAYAS! the town is literally built on a mountain, probably about 7000ft above sea level, and everwhere you go is on a formidable incline. when you look up, the snow-and-granite titan peaks grab your eyes and shake your whole being into humility. running parallel to the grandeur of the place is also an immense joyousness that seems to resonate from the rock, carry itself on the wind through the prayer flags, and find fertile ground in the smiles of everyone living in the vicinity. i felt like i was constantly surrounded by laughing air-spirits. goofy as it does sound, if you ever go there you'll know what i mean.

my time is running out, so i'll just sum up some of things that i did: after a flight, an overnight train ride, and a bus ride up steep, guard-rail-less switchbacks (planes, trains, and automobiles all covered), my traveling buddy and i finally made it to our destination, found a cheap place to stay in no time at all (that's our window in the first picture. not bad for $7/night), and crashed out under layers of covers and sleeping bags. it's even colder inside than out, because the building is concrete with polished stone floors and no heating whatsoever. the next day i spontaneously decided to go for a walk. with my backpack full of school supplies, i started hiking up. and up. and up. it was a marvelous way to procrastinate my studies. 3 hours up the Triund trail until i reached the last ridge before the REAL mountains begin. i think the climb was something like 3000 feet, but i'm not too sure. either way, i was winded and sore and hungry by the time that i reached the top. luckily there was a little hut halfway up that served the best chai i've ever had in my entire life. at the top of the ridge, a mad wind greets you from the deep valley on the other side, and looking across it, the full magnificence of the mountains reveals itself (see second picture). i spent a good hour just sitting under the prayer flags, listening, meditating, basking in a part of earthly existence that i didn't think could be possible. i'm doing really horrible injustice to the situation with my inadequate descriptions, so i'll just stop there.

some of the other highlights of the 5 days were exploring some of the Tibetan buildings, visiting the Norbulinka Institute (see third picture - this place is incredible - i can't go into much detail here, but you should look up their website if you have any interest in Tibetan culture), and making friends with a monk. there was a lot more that i cannot go into now, but suffice to say that it was one of the most spiritually, emotionally, and physically intense experiences of my life. please direct further inquires to me in person upon my return. i'd love to share some more stories, but now i must depart, as there are other more pressing matters to attend to.