last days in Dar, first days in Zanzibar

(written October 17, 2007)

7 days since my last entry seems much, much longer than that. the value of 24 hours is really being pushed to its limits - i get so much out of every moment. i can't even begin to describe everything, but i'll start with today and work my way back.

right now i'm laying on my mosquito net-covered bed, cotton sleep sack rolled out beneath me, in a spartan guest house room in Kizimkazi, Zanzibar, Tanzania. the white-sand, coral-lined beach is only 50 yards out the door. saying "coral-lined" is a bit redundant, though, since this entire island is literally made of coral that has piled up over the millenia to create an entire land mass and ecosystem. today we had class in the morning at the Palace Museum (the former home of the Sultan of Zanzibar) and then at the Institute of Marine Science in Stone Town, Zanzibar, before breaking up into 3 smaller groups and starting our field site visits, which will last for 3 days. we jumped aboard our dala-dala and drove south for an hour. tomorrow we're waking up at 5:30 to go swim with dolphins. very very very excited, to say the least.

yesterday (Tuesday) was the least eventful of the last week. highlight - making India vacation travel plans with my friend Caroll (we're going to Dharamsala for 4 days!). Monday was crazy. class was fun, but a bit hot and long, so it was tough to stay awake. after having dinner with my host family, i went out to see the Eid festivities (Tuesday was the last day of the 4-day celebration at the end of Ramadhan) with my host sister, Isde, her sister-in-law, her maid, Atu, and my host family's other student-renter, Cassie. i had a simply stupendous time walking through the crazy open-air markets, seeing all the Muslim families out and about, and joking with my "entourage."

the day before, Sunday, was our first real day in Zanzibar. i went for a long walk with myself, managing to get lost several times in the twisting maze of ancient streets carved between whitewashed houses, old forts, and various examples of Arabic architecture. my host brother, Abui, who is only a year older than i, took us (Adam, Nate and me - as the only three males in the program, we are constantly boarding together) to a housewarming party for his cousin. her husband is an ex-pro footballer, and his house was the size and layout of a small apartment building. we ate on the roof with at least 25 other relatives in two boisterous cross-legged circles separated by gender. the meal - Zanzibar mix, which was something like potato curry, falafel, beef kabob, cucumber salad, and local spices all mixed together. quite a treat, i highly recommend it the next time you happen to pass by Zanzibar.

on Saturday most of the day-hours were spent traveling on the ferry from Dar to Zanzibar, getting acquainted with the host family, and finding my way around their extensive and labyrinthine house. Adam and i share a bed, but the room is so comfy and deluxe with Arabian-influenced decor that we hardly notice the inconvenience. that night Abui took us out to a reggae party and then to a bar catering to the many "muzungus" (lit, Europeans, but used to refer to any white people) in Zanzibar.

Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday of last week were all crazy days. Wednesday saw our first group "check-in" session, which for me was a real milestone in feeling more comforatble with everyone. lots of emotional connections and other gooey stuff, but it's important when we're spending so much time in close contact with people who were, up until a few weeks ago, complete strangers.

Thursday was great fun. for dinner, Maureen (our program's "fellow," or assistant teacher) and a group of 8 students were invited to the house of a chance acquaintance of Maureen's. we helped prepare and ate ugali and other local veggie dishes. our host, Sarafina, was possibly the most hospitable and bubbly personality i've ever met. she served us champagne, which is crazy because she is devout Muslim (i.e. she has never had a drop of alcohol in her life) and obviously on a tight budget, living alone in a one-bedroom apartment. it was quite an event - not something i'll forget easily. when we returned, Rachel (the YMCA concierge) took a bunch of us to a nearby club to go dancing. it was a good time, but i was a little preoccupied making sure that none of the other inebreated patrons got too excited by the pack of beautiful young American women that walked in the door with me. we were just there to enjoy ourselves and go home, but being the only guy i decided to stay sober and just a little bit cautious. of course, nothing serious happened, and we got home safe and sound, though i didn't get to bed until the early morning.

needless to say, Friday found me totally drained, having had only a few hours of sleep in the past few days. Helena, Caroll, and i were able to arrange an interview with Tundu Lissu after class, which was awesome and really helpful for my studies, but it also ended up taking 3 hours, so we didn't eat until 10. i made sure to get a good rest that night.